Due to the climatic conditions, hot drinks have traditionally been preferred in Rus. Perhaps that is why tea became so popular here, preceded by sbiten and even earlier by uzvar or vzvar. There is an intriguing detail hidden in the name of this drink. Its main difference from compote is that it is not boiled but vzvarivayetsya, that is, “brought just to the boil”. Vladimir Dal defined it as “water in which part of what was boiled has dissolved”.
Uzvar was considered medicinal and was often given to those recovering from illness, as it contains many beneficial substances and vitamins. Originally, uzvars were prepared by the Cossacks of the Don and Kuban regions; it is no coincidence that a “glass of cold cherry vzvar” is mentioned by Mikhail Sholokhov in “And Quiet Flows the Don”. As Ivan Shmelev wrote, “…On Christmas Eve, before the first star, we would not eat. Kutya was made from wheat with honey; vzvar – from prunes, pears, and dried apples… It was placed under the icons, on hay. Why? As though – a gift to Christ…”
For the preparation of uzvar, people traditionally used herbs, berries and fruits – everything that could be gathered and dried during summer and autumn: dried apples, pears, raisins, prunes, dried apricots, cherries, rosehips, and hawthorn. The herbs used depended on what grew in the region: mint, linden, blackcurrant shoots, willowherb, St John’s wort, and lemon balm. As a rule, the vzvar was brought to the boil and then left to infuse, with honey added if desired. This combination made the drink both tasty and beneficial.
However, in traditional Russian cuisine, vzvars were not only sweet and served as drinks but could also be made from onions, cabbage, cranberries, and lingonberries; these were prepared with the addition of vinegar, sauerkraut brine, honey, spices, and flour and were served as hot sauces to accompany the main dishes.
In the modern world, we tend to quench our thirst in other ways, but it is never too late to recall our cultural code, of which gastronomy is an important part, and to reintroduce this forgotten yet healthy beverage into our diet. By doing so, we not only bring ancient traditions and meanings into everyday life but also contribute something new to be passed on to future generations.
In the polar city of Salekhard, it has become customary during public festivities to treat guests to old Russian dishes, always enhanced with local ingredients and a modern interpretation. Uzvar is a frequent guest at such celebrations.
An example recipe for Yamal-style apple uzvar with northern lingonberries.
Ingredients:
- Dried apples – 500 g
- Lingonberries – 150 g
- Fresh apples – 300 g
- Honey – 100 g (or to taste)
- Water – 5 litres
Preparation:
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Rinse the dried apples thoroughly and pat dry to remove dust and small debris.
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Pour over cold water and leave for 10–15 minutes to soften slightly.
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Drain the water and place the apples in a saucepan. Add fresh cold water.
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Put the saucepan on the stove and bring to the boil.
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Turn off the heat, cover with a lid, and leave to infuse for 3 hours.
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Mash the lingonberries and add them to the drink.
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Cool the uzvar to a warm temperature (around 36–40°C) and mix in the honey.
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Leave the uzvar at room temperature until completely cooled, then strain.
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Wash the fresh apples, remove stems and seeds, cut into cubes, and add to the finished drink.
Lidiya Kvashnina, a resident of the Resource Centre for New Media and a member of the BRICS Bloggers Team project, provided the material.
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